rom the Grand-Place, a Unesco-protected square surrounded by gilt-adorned guildhalls, the City Hall and the ornate King’s House, to the many museums, parks and palaces that line its cobbled streets, Brussels is rightly proud of its heritage. But Belgium’s cosmopolitan city – the de facto capital of the European Union – has successfully catapulted itself into the 21st century with a thriving contemporary scene. Here, you’ll find quirky concept stores, modish restaurants and hipster nightclubs jostling for space alongside Gothic churches and Art Nouveau architecture. Like London or Paris, Brussels is divided into neighbourhoods. Each has its own unique character and all are supported by an excellent public transport network. Here are our favourite places to visit when you need a break from work.
History lesson
The Grand-Place may be the pièce de résistance but the streets surrounding the richly ornate square are steeped in history. Visit the Musée de la Ville de Bruxelles, if only to set eyes on Belgium’s famous Manneken–Pis statue. The collective Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium include the not-to-be-missed Old Masters Museum for Rubens, Rembrandt et al, and the Magritte Museum, devoted to the art of the Belgian surrealists, notably René Magritte. While fans of Tintin and the Smurfs will love the Comic Strip Centre.
A short stroll will bring you to the Quartier Royal on Couldenberg Hill. Here you’ll find the Palais Royal, the official royal residence, which is open in the summer months so you can admire the marble floors, crystal chandeliers and period furniture. At the opposite end of the leafy Parc de Bruxelles is the Palais de la Nation, Belgium’s parliament since 1831. All that culture making you hungry? Book a table at the Michelin-starred Comme Chez Soi , with its Art Nouveau dining room.
Modern times
History lesson over, head for the characterful Dansaert design district with its avant-garde boutiques, fashionable restaurants and contemporary galleries. Rue Antoine Dansaert is the main drag and is packed with intimate ateliers and cutting-edge labels. Plus there’s a charming salon de thé, AM Sweet, round the corner on Chartreux, which does moreish pastries and, of course, delectable chocolates, for which Belgium is so well-known. The multicultural neighbourhood of Ixelles – the birthplace of Audrey Hepburn – is equally as vibrant. Among the Art Deco, Art Nouveau and Belle Époque gems, you’ll find many a café serving the Belgian staple of beer and frites. Walk it off in the botanically significant Tenbosch Park or around one of the area’s two famous ponds.
The art of politics
Ixelles sits right next door to the thriving Leopold Quarter, aka the European Quarter, home to the European Parliament. Should you wish, you can book a group tour with a guide who will take you on a journey through European history and integration. Alternatively, take in the Parlamentarium, Europe’s largest parliamentary visitors’ centre, which brings the EU story alive with interactive exhibits and displays. But the Leopold Quarter isn’t all about Eurocrats. Stroll round the area’s four main squares for their pleasing architecture, and multitude of bars, restaurants and shops. Don’t miss the Organic Market in Place Luxembourg, which takes place every Tuesday afternoon. And, for a breath of fresh air, Parc Leopold’s ponds and hills provide an urban oasis.
This means business
The Northern Quarter is the central business district of Brussels. It may be full of towering high-rise offices, but it’s not all work and no play here. Nestled amid the skyscrapers, there’s plenty to keep everyone amused. The Art Deco Kaai Theatre has a packed contemporary arts programme, while Botanique – another cultural institution – housed in the former botanical gardens, is the place for indie and rock concerts. Botanique’s garden and, indeed, the nearby Espace Gaucheret are little pockets of green that can provide a tranquil escape from the office though, if retail therapy is more your thing, Rue Neuve has every big-name brand imaginable.
Corner the market
Known colloquially as ‘Les Marolles’, Marollen is a lively neighbourhood, its charming streets lined with antique shops and Instagram-worthy buildings, many of which reflect its artisan history. By day, don’t miss the quarter’s famous flea market on Place du Jeu Balle, which is open seven days a week, 365 days of the year. With more than 500 stalls and shops selling bric-a-brac, vintage furniture and retro bits, it is quite an experience – though it’s best to get there early to avoid crowds. Afterwards, reward yourself with a slice of cheesecake at cool café-cum-concept store, L’atelier en Ville. By night, follow the sound of the bass line and let your hair down at Fuse, one of Belgium’s longest-running electronic music institutions.
Take a walk around the block but don’t forget to start your stroll at Spaces. Find one in Brussels that is near where you want to be.